Behind the scenes: Pomellato’s Milan jewellery workshop

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Maria Doulton: I travelled to Milan to see
the headquarters and production centre of Pomellato, the Italian brand known for its
bold and minimalist designs that has Tilda Swinton as its ambassador. Pomellato is one of the few luxury names that
makes each and each and every one of its jewels in house, so a visit to these workshops is
key in understanding this company, which began life as a chain maker. Pomellato has recently
been acquired by the French luxury conglomerate Kering, which counts Gucci and Boucheron amongst
its brand portfolio. The extensive workshops are home to some 100
craftsmen and women who carefully cast, solder, file, set and polish each and every Nudo ring,
Victoria necklace or Capri bracelet. From initial ingot of gold to diamond and gem setting,
each jewel is produced from start to finish in these very workshops. Pomellato uses the labour-intensive technique
of lost wax casting to create the gold forms of its jewels, an ancient technique that allows
for big, free-flowing shapes and soft lines. Each jewel starts life as a mould, which is
then converted into a pink wax model and, finally, cast in gold blended by the house.
The individual components are assembled by hand, giving the jewels the highly sophisticated
and finely finished look that is the house style. I spoke to CEO Andrea Morante, who tells us
more about Pomellato’s history, and what makes it different. Andrea Morante: The company is about 43 years
old. It was established here in Milan by a gentleman from the goldsmith industry, so
he always paid a lot of attention to gold and how it is manufactured. So one of the
reasons why you see 100 artisans here has to do with the origins of the company and
the DNA of the company itself. One of the reasons why we’ve insisted on actually coming
up with our own gold is because we think there is a strong association with colours and Pomellato.
Which allows us to blend our own colours and it allows for the product to be immediately
identified as a Pomellato gold. Most notably the Nudo line – as soon as you see a Nudo
ring you immediately associate it with Pomellato and no other jeweller. We’ve had the privilege
of having the same creative director for a great number of years and that, I think, has
allowed us to have the element of continuity. We’ve always stuck to the idea that if we
keep it under one house, we can control the process from A-Z. We can explain to our clients
that when they buy a Pomellato product it is a product that has a great deal of handmade
components, made by a process that is not industrial at all. If you want to know all that’s happening in
the world of jewellery and watches, visit my website, thejewelleryeditor.com.

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