Woodturning Jewelry With Infinite Axis Chuck

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Hi, Alan Stratton, from As Wood Turns (www.AsWoodTurns.com)
In the last couple of videos, I’ve made brooches and pendants. But I’m not done
yet. Because this brooch was initially a defect, a mistake, where I cut thru the disk into
the back material. In the end, we salvaged it to make it a very attractive brooch.
But sometimes mistakes or defects lead you to a new discovery. So I decided to take that
idea and make another brooch disk In this case, I laminated another different color
wood to the back side so that I could deliberately cut thru the front disk into the back and
achieve different shapes and forms. This one is a change into the color; this one is a
half way into two different colors; this one leaves a little different color half moon
button. Anything goes. So, let’s make this brooch disk.
On the other hand, I’ve been using Linda Ferber’s very quick and easy, skew axis
chucks. But if you remember a while back, we used this egg chuck to finish the ends
of eggs. I’ve been searching for other uses for this egg chuck and I think I’ve found
one here. It does require a little be more turning in order to use it. If you remember
on this one, it was a PVC compression joint that we put a disk in the bottom to hold the
bottom of the egg and then a ring on the top to hold the top of the egg. All held together
by the PVC fitting. To adapt this chuck, I made it into a ball
and socket joint. So here is the equivalent of the egg. So instead of the small end, I
made more of a tenon on the end. Another feature of this chuck that I discovered in the process
is to leave a chuck hold, or a little bit of a dovetail tenon here on the ball. So if
you do need to re-address this tenon and glue on another piece or tool it back, you could
hold it in a chuck while you fix the tenon. You don’t have to make another one. Although
it is really not that difficult. So this ball goes into the same place as the egg. Then
I had to make a larger retaining ring. That’s where plywood such as this Baltic birch or
even solid wood failed me. I switched to high density polyethylene, HDPE and made this disk
so that it could have a wider space here to allow the tenon to go thru, but yet retain
the wood, the ball joint, and not split or crack. This disk is shaped to fit inside the
PVC ring and then the tenon goes thru that hole. This is then threaded onto the fitting
then with double stick tape, or I used hot melt glue that I used, fasten the disk to
the face of the tenon. Loosen the ring, rotate the work to whatever angle that you want in
this chuck. It has its advantages. I still like Linda
Ferber’s for a fixed angle. They’re dirt cheap. I like the egg chuck because of being
able to adjust in multiple ways without removing it and resetting it into the double stick
tape. Each has its plusses and minuses. Why not have both? These are almost free using
scrap wood. This one, if you’ve already made the egg chuck, is almost free also. If
you haven’t made an egg chuck yet, okay maybe it is fifteen dollars, a far cry from
over one hundred dollars or more for a commercial chuck that does not have the skew / tilt features
which both of these sets do. But for now, let’s make another brooch.
I’m making my workpiece holder from cedar. Why cedar? Because I have plenty of it to
use up. Any wood would do. Let’s get it round so the real fun can start.
Now, I’m trimming the end and cutting a dovetail tenon for remounting into my chuck.
After remounting it into the chuck, I’ll narrow it down to about 2” diameter. This
will easily fit the egg chuck. Next, mark the diameter as a length on the
wood. Then approximate lines to cut it into an octagonal shape. No need for a perfect
sphere so approximate will do fine. The lines are for the ends, middle, and corners of an
octagon. Then proceed to cut an approximate octagon,
then round it over into a sphere. I’m leaving a stepped tenon – narrow at first to leave
clearance for chuck rim, then a wider tenon for mounting my workpiece. This is good skew
practice. A quick sand removes any ridges before parting it off.
Then as I checked my work against the egg chuck, I realized an error. My tenon has to
be small enough to fit thru both the fittings top ring and my insert that keeps pressure
on the ball joint. I also need a new insert to go below the top
of the PVC fitting. This ring retains the ball. The center hole needs to be small enough
to keep pressure on the ball but large to fit over the tenon. With my ball’s diameter
at about 2 inches, about 1 ½ inches should do. I’m using a small piece of High density
Polyethylene. Why plastic=because any wood would have short grain and break. At first
I’m holding it against a faceplate with the tail stock while I cut it round and size
it to fit inside the top fitting ring. With my skew in scraping mode, long ribbons of
plastic peel off easily. It’s almost pretty but I still prefer wood shavings. I’m shaping
it to fit inside the top ring of the PVC with a short tenon to fit the thru hole.
Next, I’m using hot melt to hold the high density polyethylene while I cut the center
hole. A parting tool makes short work of cutting out the center.
Now to reverse the ring to round over the other side. That short little tenon fitting
thru the ring provides enough hold to remount into chuck jaws. More skew scraper work to
round over. After attempting to fit everything together,
I realized that my tenon is just a little too big. Except now, I’ve already parted
the wood off. My solution turns out to be an enhancement. I put the wood back in my
chuck and cut a small tenon like cut near the widest part of the ball. With this I can
remount it into a chuck to refine the tenon. This is an enhancement because I can use this
groove in the future when the tenon is worn or damaged. With the ball back in a chuck,
I can turn a tenon to add wood to form a new tenon. This is now part of the design.
Now I can put it all together and get to what I really want to do.
Now I’ using hot melt glue to fasten my blank to the ball tenon. I hope to find my
double stick tape soon. I want tail stock support without any indent.
A quick solution is to put a penny over the point of the live center. Pressure without
an indent and cheap. My first task on the brooch is to cut it round and smooth off the
top surface. I’ll keep the tail stock until the last minute.
Then sand the top surface now because it would be tough to do after the indents are cut in.
Now the real fun begins. I’m loosening the PVC ring and retightening at an angle. The
tail stock is useful to figure out where the new center will be. I’m cutting my first
feature with a small gouge before sanding only this feature. My intent is to cut completely
thru the top layer into the lower layer of padauk.
Now for the next feature. Loosen the ring and move it to another position again using
the tail stock as a guide. Then cut and sand this feature with a slightly different profile.
Same thing for the final feature. Loosen, adjust to a new position, tighten, cut and
sand. With the turning done, I sanded the back,
signed the back, applied shellac and buffed the brooch. I’ll add a finding a bit later.
I like my brooch. I’ll add this egg chuck adaptation to my portfolio and use it more
later. It has some advantages and disadvantages over Linda Ferber’s chucks. So I’ll use
which ever fits my project best. We’ll see you again next week. Please leave
your comments. If you can find it, please click the “Like” button. And, if you haven’t
subscribed, please subscribe to both my website and YouTube channel. Always wear your full
face shield –goggles are not enough. Until next time, this is Alan Stratton from As Wood
Turns dot com.

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